The next game due on my tabletop will be Talavera. Having thought I had painted all the figures required I discovered I was missing one battery of Baden artillery and now awaiting a delivery from Baccus. In the meantime I am reverting to my “On the Workbench” updates to provide a flavour of what I have been painting over recent months.
One of the larger painting projects was the completion of the Spanish contingent for the battle:
The row of units on the left together with some Guerrillas at the top middle row of the left box had previously been completed. All other units are new and all are Baccus.
A closer view of the left hand box.
More of those previously painted figures. Originally these were planned as direct replacements of my 15mm versions and were set for post 1812 (with a couple of exceptions). Therefore most are not ideal for Talavera but I decided that life is simply too short to paint whole new Spanish armies representing their evolution of uniform changes through the Peninsular War. I calculated that I could get away with it in 6mm although less so in the larger scales!
All the new units painted over recent weeks and months are as close as I can get them to the actual units present at the battle. This and the following photos highlights some of those units.
I will include details of the these units when reporting on the battle and hopefully they will acquit themselves a little better than they did historically!
With kids, now I fit my painting to the time I have spare. So with an hour or two before a family visit, I decided to dig out all my unpainted 15mm, 6mm or clix mechs and see what I could get ready for the tabletop.
My son wanted to help but I easily decoyed him with some OOP DUST/AT43 mechs (which are skyscraper size compared to our ~15mm tall mechs we painted last week; so he was super impressed). Leaving him happily pew-pewing on “his” man-cave table (he uses it for LEGO plus any minis he politely borrows off my table) I was free to dig through my mini boxes in search of all things mech-y.
The 3 huge AT43 mechs in the background weren’t part of the project; they merely served to distract my son from his efforts to assist me….
I’m going to paint a series of mech “units” in generic military colours (grey, olive, khaki, silver) to allow them to be swapped back and forth between random armies – no “Space Marine” all-red, all-blue, all-yellow paint schemes. I’ll use easily-overpainted shoulder tags to delineate forces – which means if I change my mind I can easily swap mechs between armies, changing their allegiance with a dab of paint.
The copper GZG not-VOTOM my daughter painted is a “battlesuit” in our game; so it gives you a sense of scale. An AT-43 28mm is more of a regular mech, and the Battletech clix with claws is a heavy unit.
The strider is from a small 15m manufacturer which I cannot recall (I think it was one of those “guy-selling-from-his-blog” stores limited range of minis – from 10 years ago.)
The Battletech mini is a rebased clix. I have quite a few unique random clix, who are going to serve as the “centrepiece” model of a range of small mech forces.
My aim is to make a similar size unit of 5-10 mechs next weekend. I’m using clix, 6mm, 10mm, and 15mm mechs – as well as some 28mm mechs to be “titan class.” Inspired by Gamma Wolves, I’ve decided to get as many of my random mechs table ready as I can.
More Narrative Wargamer Podcast goodness, this time something a little different as rather than delving into some crunchy stuff with new rules or missions from a new book, it’s a quiz show!
For this episode, Tony came up with a bunch of questions based on the lore in the Book of Rust, which neither I or Dave had read through, and presented multiple choices, including the ‘real’ answer and some made up ones. It proved quite a challenge to try and work out just how silly and over the top the GW writers are, especially in the ‘real Death Guard name, or random name generator’ section. Overall it was pretty good fun, and I hope you all enjoy it so we can do it again! Stay safe!
There are many ways to paint bone, but if you are looking for a way to let Contrast Medium do most of the work for you and get a lot of Skeleton Warriors or Grave Guard done quickly, then look no further.
This tutorial assumes you have a good understanding of how to paint Warhammer miniatures. Underneath each picture is the corresponding instruction. Each step shows the paint(s) I used. I have a rather eclectic paint collection, so when I use a paint that’s not from Games Workshop or out of production, I’ll try to provide you with suitable alternatives from the current Citadel paint range [in brackets]. However, if you want to achieve the exact same result as shown, you might want to expand your paint collection with a specific colour. You’ll find a list of all the paints used in this tutorial at the end of the post.
How to paint Skeleton Warrior / Grave Guard bone
Basecoat the bone with multiple thin coats of Wraithbone base paint. Depending on your paint scheme and the amount of exposed boneit might be a good idea to use Wraithbone primer instead
Wraithbone base paint tends to dry a bit chalky, so I applied a coat of varnish for a smooth finish, which will help the wash to spread more evenly. I used a mix of Anti-Shine and Gloss Varnish from The Army Painter, but any satin varnish is fine. You can skip this stage completely when you use Wraithbone primer.
I mixed Wyldwood with a lot of Contrast Medium, about 1 part Wyldwood to 10 parts Contrast Medium, and gave the bone a generous all-over wash. Soak up any excess wash with a spare brush if you notice excessive pooling. This will create a beautifully smooth subtle shading.
Once dry, I thinned Wyldwood with Contrast Medium again, but this time more like 1:5. I applied this mix as a selective wash over areas where I wanted the recesses to be even darker, like the eye sockets, ribs and spine, fingers and feet, and the cavity between the forearm bones.
If there is still visible pooling on larger flat areas such as the upper arm bones or the cranium, or if you need to correct any paint spills later on, mix a tiny bit of Beast Hide into Wraithbone (approx. 1:12) and use the mix to smooth over any affected areas. You can also use Monster Brown from The Army Painter for Beast Hide, or Gorthor Brown from Citadel.
Finally, add a highlight of Pallid Wych Flesh. You can spend as much or as little time on this stage as you like, focussing only on key parts such as the skulls and fingers or going all-over, or even applying the highlight as a drybrush. If you want to go even further, you can add little dots of pure white to the sharpest corners.
And this completes my quick and easy bone effect. The key to this technique is getting the first wash right, so use a lot of Contrast Medium. Be generous when applying the wash and take your time, soaking up any excess to keep pooling to a minimum, and you will end up with a beutiful and smooth result that won’t need much more work.
Here you can see the technique applied to the base of a Spirit Host and an old Skeleton Warrior. For the Skeleton Warrior, I used Wraithbone primer.
“Dung Farm” is one of the scenarios from Hit the Dirt (HTD, p. 15-16). It is Italy, 4 February 1944, and the Germans are attacking into the Anzio beachhead at the northern end of ‘The Thumb’. The “Dung Farm” of the title is the British nickname for the Italian Pig Farm that featured in the … Read moreSteve Balagan